La Personne<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" All great haute couture designers have the typical signs. Some creation or invention which let them to get the immortality, to stay at the top of the fashion Olympus. While talking about Chanel we imagine \u201clittle black dress\u201d, Dior is undoubtedly associated with the kilometers of fabric rushing from the tiny waist to the New Look silhouette, Balenciaga means the volume jacket, Paco Rabanne bells the metal. And when speaking of Saint Laurent\u2026 This will be neither female smoking jacket dressed on a naked body, nor safari-dress, neither the black-laced back, showing the total absence of underwear, nor the transparent blouse, showing absolutely the same. Not the A-line dress and not even the Mondrian dress. Yves\u2019 second name is colour. The triumph of colour in all its variety, in all its possible and impossible combinations. The modern image of the Fashion House is totally changed \u2013 the collections under the Saint Laurent name appeal to something gothic, rock-n-roll, youthful, in times androgynous, dominating black, occasionally mixed with white. The creative works by Saint Laurent himself oppositely differed by the splash of colours. Raspberry and emerald combinations, flaming red spilled onto the black or inky, fresh lemon shades interlaced with tints of blue \u2013 sky, cobalt in neighborhood with blossom pink, shadowed orange and deep violet\u2026 Add to the mentioned the plenty of accessories, all-kind decorations, false massive jewelry, the plumage, tinsels and sequins. Yves Saint Laurent was one of the first who started dyeing the fur \u2013 and soon the women dressed in fuchsia and turquoise fur-coats goes to the catwalk and further to the city streets. The state national designer, he nearly killed the main precept of French elegance \u2013 not over three colours in one look. Mostly curious that till the 1976 Yves Saint Laurent didn\u2019t paint in colour and that the triumph of this creative thought goes to the same period. The colour affair has its roots, Saint Laurent was born under the burning North African sun, he was grown up in culture sophisticatedly called Al Magrib. And during all his creative life he was coming back to the territories he came from. We are keeping the cultural code of the countries we have grown in. By no doubt there are genes, but also the surrounding medium spirit and it often wins. Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent was born and lived until he was 18 years old in Oran \u2013 the harbor city in Mediterranean Algeria. The milieu he was raised in, the nonchalant colony atmosphere, that was reigning in French North Africa, the particularities of local architecture \u2013 all they influenced his art vision. The turbans, belly dresses, oriental styled gowns often appeared in his collections. His creative interest was mostly lying beyond the European boarders and his brightest collections were dedicated to the faraway countries and unknown cities \u2013 the African collection of 1967, the Indian collections in 1980s, the Chinese collection of 1977\u2026 Yves Saint Laurent tried to experiment with national clothes \u2013 styled Sari, Kimono, Caftan\u2026 Adapted headwear \u2013 turban, skullcap, Asian hat\u2026 If he appealed to Europe \u2013 it was something like Andalusia Spain with its fluffy skirts, frills, flounces, flowers. Yves Saint Laurent have never sketched in France. Never. In his young age being the Art Director of the \u201cChristian Dior\u201d, he went for a few-month trip to Oran, to his parents\u2019 house from where he came back with a huge bunch of sketches. Later his personal house in Morocco became his art asylum \u2013 the well-known Villa Majorelle where 10 years ago the ashes of Maestro were dispelled. There was one more country in Saint Laurent\u2019s life, the country that caused the special trembling \u2013 mysterious, oriental, Tatar-Mongol. But it needs a special storytelling. \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 What was in the beginning and when the spark burned into the flame\u2026 I don\u2019t know, but the fact is Yves Saint Laurent adored Russia. In far 1959, at the times of Khrushchev\u00a0Thaw the unprecedented occasion happened \u2013 the fashion shows of \u201cChristian Dior\u201d took place in the Soviet Union. At that moment the 22-year old Yves was the art director of the fashion house. And there already were some clothes models called after Russian female names in the collection. Supposed, even this idea belongs to young Maestro \u2013 famous photo shooting with the Dior mannequins pictured in Moscow streets, near the sparkling-water machines, at the children\u2019s playgrounds, in the market while buying the lily of the valley bunches from the babushkas. It looks like truth. He was addicted to challenge, to outrageous non-conformist decisions. Later, Russia would become the brightest leitmotiv of Couturier\u2019s life and art. After his resignation from Dior company, while opening his own house one of the patrons of Saint Laurent was Tatiana Yacovleff du Plessix-Liberman \u2013 the wife of Conde Nast Publishing editorial director and the swan\u2019s last song of Vladimir Mayakovski. By the way, the poet’s portrait was placed in Saint Laurent house, nearly at his working table. In the territory of the Proust Castle owned by Pierre Berge and Yves Saint Laurent, the real Russian Izba was built. There was also Russian Sauna \u2013 The Banya. Yves read Tolstoy, Dostoevsky, Chekhov, Turgenev, Pushkin\u2026 He admired Mussorgsky. He drank vodka from the glasses with double-headed eagle\u2026 And then the greater collection appeared \u2013 the most famous one by Maestro. Later it passed into all fashion encyclopedias, it became the gorgeous fashion masterpiece \u2013 haute couture fall\/winter 1976 \u201cOperas-Ballets Russes\u201d. Being deeply exhausted and depressed, Yves Saint Laurent created more over one hundred full-coloured sketches, getting inspired by Diaghilev\u2019s \u201cLes saisons Russes\u201d, Bakst paintings, Byzantine culture and Russian folklore. The treasure cave full of gold, brocades, furs, colourful Gypsy skirts, Romany blouses, again furs, caftans, boyar coats, kazaki-boots\u2026 The beautiful mannequins\u2019 heads were crowned by Monomakh\u2019s Caps and oriental turbans. It was all in one \u2013 Scheherazade and Boris Godunov, the memories of Tatar-Mongol Invasion and Constantinople legacy. That was the fairy tale country by the eyes of genius artist. Moreover, the show was as stroking in its dramatics and scale as Diaghilev\u2019s performances had been. The first time when the haute couture defile came out of the House and turned into the show, into the stage performance accompanied by the fascinating voice of Maria Callas. First time in fashion history the professional hair and make-up stylists worked for the catwalk show, before that the models were always self-assembled. The success was deeply out loud, later the collection would have been quoted for many times and years. The Russian Collection was something like a quintessence of all the things Maestro Yves Saint Laurent so deeply loved \u2013 Orient, Russia, colour, history, art, theatre, opera, ballet\u2026 Inspiration, Love, Friendship, Business \u2013 that\u2019s what it was. The world of Theatre captured Yves Saint Laurent while he was 11-year old boy \u2013 Moliere\u2019s play The School for Wives stage and costume designed by Christian Berard was performed in Oran. When coming back home, young Yves had built teddy theatre with the actor\u2019s silhouettes made of paper, dressed by him in paper dresses. Fifteen years later Yves Saint Laurent would create the costumes for real dramatic and ballet performances. His collaboration with Roland Petit kept the gorgeous legacy \u2013 for ballet art, for fashion world for their endless weaves. Cyrano de Bergerac, Les Chants de Maldoror, Palais de Chaillot, The Devil in Love, Notre Dame De Paris \u2013 this is not a full list of Petit\u2019 ballets for which Saint Laurent generated costume and stage design. Their tandem was full of harmony \u2013 the style of Saint Laurent was so accordant to Roland Petit\u2019s choreography language. Insolent, sensual, elegant, balancing at the edges of propriety, unreached but readable, sophisticated. It chanted the Beauty \u2013 of move and gesture, the beauty of personality, the beauty of Woman and human physicality. It is a sort of intellectual sexuality. Some time ago Notre Dame De Paris by Roland Petit was in the repertoire of the Bolshoi Theatre \u2013 of course with the costumes designed by Maestro. To dress a Ballerina is a highly pleasant thing \u2013 slim bodies, straight backs, graceful lines, lightness, plasticity\u2026 Principal dancers often chose the dresses by Saint Laurent for social and stage go-outs. The Dame Margot Fonteyn and Roland Petit\u2019s wife \u2013 petite Zizi Jeanmaire. Later, Yves will create all her music-hall costumes \u2013 all these fancy plumage in pink, dare mini skirts, jackets decorated with sequins and bugle beads were the masterpieces of Saint Laurent\u2019s hands and thought. For the Principal of Opera de Paris \u2013 the wife of Pierre Lacotte – Ghislaine Thesmar, the Designer sketched the costumes for Scheherazade ballet. For Maya Plisetskaya he designed the airy tunic made of pinky chiffon. The ballet was La Rose Malade by Roland Petit. When the foreign pink curiosity got into the costume department of the Bolshoi it caused some kind of shock \u2013 there were no such tailoring technology in Soviet Russia, also the design was ground breaking. It was the only Saint Laurent\u2019s creation for Plisetskaya, but he was proud of it deeply \u2013 the portrait of Maya in a pink tunic had an honorary place in the Maestro\u2019s Home (somewhere aside the portrait of Mayakovski). Chanel took us from feminity and sensuality, but lead to elegance and usability. Dior gave us back the Woman\u2019s look, but picked up the utility. Somehow magically Yves Saint Laurent could combine the best from his teachers. More than any other couturier he managed to feel and understand a Woman \u2013 her thoughts, her desires, her mood, her inner sense. Maestro made friends with the greatest, most beautiful, most interesting women of his time \u2013 actresses, ballerinas, writers, painters, fashion models, first ladies\u2026 They were his confidents, muses, colleagues, party partners. Night Paris still gets the memories of them \u2013 irreproachably dressed Yves Saint Laurent, the ideal Nordic blonde Betty Catroux in a styled male costume, graceful Loulou\u00a0de\u00a0la\u00a0Falaise wearing colourful dress and a turban. Betty was Yves\u2019s fashion model and the main friend-in-party, Loulou was responsible for jewelry design in Yves Saint Laurent House. Untill the last collection in 2001 Catherine\u00a0Deneuve was a fashion icon and the ambassador of Saint Laurent style. She was like a treasure of a front row at all the haut couture shows and every social go-out was marked with a new Yves Saint Laurent look. Among the favourite mannequins and fashion models there were exotic chocolate skin beauties \u2013 Mounya and Kirat, gorgeous Veruschka. He was the first who had found the extraordinary charm of young Laetitia Casta. He devoted the whole collections to his eccentric muse Paloma Picasso. To Elsa Triolet, the wife of Louis Aragon, he dedicated his famous jacket \u2013 The Eyes of Elsa \u2013 named after Henri Matisse painting. Now this jacket is a part of fashion legacy. There was long-term warm friendship between Maestro and Elsa\u2019s sister \u2013 the main infernal woman for Russian literature \u2013 Lilya Brik. As the legend tells they got acquainted in the airport during one of his visits to Moscow. Yves noticed a stylish elder woman at Sheremetievo, approached her and just told that she was the most elegant woman in Soviet Union. After there were years of correspondence, Yves Saint Laurent sent Lilya lots of precious gifts \u2013 bags, shawls, bijoux from his latest collections. Lilya accepted them graciously. \u00a0 Not about the things you could think. It is all about the dogs. Yves Saint Laurent adored French Bulldogs like Mayakovski did. Mayakovski called his bulldog Bulka. The name for Saint Laurent\u2019s bulldogs was \u2013 the Muzhik \u2013 for all of them. When one Muzhik died, the other took his place. So all they passed by in such a manner \u2013 Muzhik I, Muzhik II, Muzhik III\u2026 For the life there were five of them. They say, the fifth was the most severe \u2013 he could simply not let anyone approach the…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":353,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[14],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/harmonyhealthconcepts.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/351"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/harmonyhealthconcepts.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/harmonyhealthconcepts.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/harmonyhealthconcepts.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/harmonyhealthconcepts.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=351"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/harmonyhealthconcepts.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/351\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":373,"href":"https:\/\/harmonyhealthconcepts.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/351\/revisions\/373"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/harmonyhealthconcepts.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/353"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/harmonyhealthconcepts.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=351"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/harmonyhealthconcepts.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=351"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/harmonyhealthconcepts.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=351"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}